Caveman climbs Mts Kurodake and Junigatake around Lake Saiko. (May 2022 repost)

  Greetings cavedwellers.  

Thanks for dropping by the cave.  Pull up a rock to the fire.  Get yourself a smore.

One million

I passed a milestone of sorts on this last trip.  According to the smartphone app I use for hiking, I’ve climbed 306,010 meters in elevation.  Meters doesn’t mean that much to me since I’m American.  (I still think it’s cold when I hear the temperature outside is 25 degrees.)  Translated into American, that distance could be expressed as 190 miles.  That seems even less impressive.

Converting it to feet, however, now that is a horse of a different color.  It’s almost like it's a unicorn to consider the elevation in feet.  No, not even a unicorn.  It's a multi-colored fire-breathing pegasus.  On this past excursion, I passed the 1 million feet mark.  (1,003, 969 feet and 9 inches to be a bit more precise.)

Maybe I should delete this app.  It might be giving me O.C.D. with all these stats it tracks.

Anyway, here’s my report on what was a great hike.

Hat tip

h/t to David Lowe for inspiring this route.  I was tossing a few ideas around my head for this overnight when I read this report he'd just posted.

https://ridgelineimages.com/hiking/kurodake/

I've spent a bit of time in this area recently and hiked Kurodake in March but wasn't rewarded with clear weather to see Fuji so his post was a welcome inspiration.

The hike

For this hike, I started on the north side of the mountains at the trailhead for Himine Shrine/Otochiyama Trailhead on Route 137.  From there, I hiked up to Mt. Kurodake via the shrine and a few peaks and spent the night in my tent right by the overlook.  On Day 2 I hiked along the ridge over the north shores of Lake Kawaguchi and Lake Sai (西湖 "Saiko" in Japanese) before descending to Lake Sai.  From Kurodake until the end of the hike there are unparalleled views of Fuji.  

Details

Getting there:

There are a few ways to get there from Tokyo.  One way is to go by train to Isawa Onsen Station and take a bus toward Mt. Fujisan Station and get off at the trailhead.  Another route is to get to Kawaguchiko Station either by bus or by train and then take the Kofu-bound bus to the Himine Jinja Mae Stop.  For me, each time I’ve gone to the area, it’s turned out that the most economical and easiest way to get to this area is to take the highway bus to Kawaguchiko Station.  That bus starts at Shinjuku but I can catch it on the way.  This time it wasn't the cheapest or easiest way.  An accident on the highway delayed my highway bus and therefore I could not catch my connecting bus.  This would cost me about 2 hours if I were to wait for the next bus.  Please don’t tell Mrs. Caveman.  (This is a test to if she reads the blog.)  I took a taxi to the trailhead and that taxi cost more than I'd budgeted for the whole trip.  (I love you, Mrs. Caveman.  You're the best.) 

Staying:

I stayed in a tent about 10 meters from the observation point just below the top of Kurodake.  I didn’t know it until a guy I met on the trail told me—but you’re not supposed to stay in a tent except in campgrounds. I’m not telling you that you should follow his advice and do the same thing that I did but his advice was to wait until no one was around before setting up the old homestead.

Huffing and Puffing:

From beginning to end, it was just over 23km (about 15 miles)  with a rise of 2,400m and a drop of 2,138m.  I spent about 11 hours hiking and about 2 or 3 more on the trail taking breaks.  Getting up to Kurodake on Day 1 entails some climbing.  Day 2 is a lot of walking on a ridgeline.  There is still some up and down on that stretch, but most of it is not too extreme.  The last 3~4km was the toughest of the whole trip, though.  Just before Mt. Juni (十二ヶ岳), I started to encounter some pretty hairy boulders and a lot of ropes.  The first boulder I came across was a challenge and I had to really think about how to get around it.  From that point on until getting to the street seemed like it was just one more rope, chain or ladder after another.  I was cursing the route by then but could take comfort in the thought that at least I wasn’t going up.

Looking for a wimpier (smarter?) route?

Going to Kurodake from the Tenkachaya (like the rest of the world does) or other shorter routes are possible.  I met a woman on top of the mountain who started hiking at a parking lot by the 日向坂峠.  She got to the top and back with only 3.2km walking.  She's a local and knows the ins and outs.

Check out her Instagram.  She specializes in taking pictures of Mt. Fuji.  Her instagram is miko0201.  She does have some amazing pictures.

Another idea is to walk up to (or even take a bus!) to the Fujiyama Terraces that the city of Fuefuki has built.  Those viewpoints are spectacular. 

https://www.fuefuki-kanko.jp/scontents/fujiyamatwinterrace/

Here's a play by play of the action

Starting out was pretty boring actually.  It was paved for a while and the theme for the next couple hours was "up."

The Himine Shrine.  Not much to look at.  No commerce.  No vending machines.  There is a water source, though.

Two people were doing maintenance there.  They told me someone had spotted a bear nearby that morning.  David Lowe mentioned seeing one in his blogpost, too.  The guy I mentioned who told me about the no tenting thing told me he saw a big steaming pile of scat.  (He didn't say it was actually steaming, but I thought that way sounds more interesting.)

The first sighting of many.

One of the peaks on day 1 was Shakagatake.  The next two pictures foreshadow the rest of the trip.  Kurodake was day 1's goal.

That's much of the route for Day 2.

This is the last waterhole before getting to Kurodake.  (It's between Suzuran Pass and Kurodake.)  I often drink running water in the mountains here without worrying too much but there were a lot of frogs croaking in this stream.  It sounded like an old Budweiser commercial.

I boiled every drop that I gathered!

From the observation point near the top of Kurodake.  I got there around 4:45pm.

Home, sweet home.

It was absolutely perfect sleeping weather.  Just a very slight breeze.  Temp was between 9~10C (46~50F).

Still, I couldn't sleep.  I sleep horribly in the woods.

I overslept.  Woke up at 4:30.

All along the ridge, there were beautiful views of Fuji.  Fuefuki City recently created two big viewing decks called the Fujiyama Twin Terraces.  When I came in March, this is what the view was.  It amazes me how the largest object in this country can hide so well when it wants to.

This time was much better!

Still plenty of azaleas around.

After the Twin Terraces, I was looking forward to starting to head down.  I still had quite a ways to go, though, and the going was slow.  I hadn't slept much and fatigue was taking its toll.  After a few more miles, I was really ready to start heading down when I encountered this

and then this:

That picture doesn't give that rock the terrifying* respect it deserves.  It's about 4~5 feet high (150cm) and there is no way around it because each side is a sheer drop of 10~20 meters.

*(Maybe "terrifying" is a bit of an overstatement.  Let's say "concerning".)

At this point I was thinking to myself, "Now I have to do this?  This had to wait until I was tired?"

I was reminded of something I learned in the army.  The most dangerous part of a mission often is on the way back, not on the way out.

It took me about 15 minutes to overcome this obstacle.  I was not about to climb over that rock.  Not alone with an overnight-sized pack on my back.  I backed up the trail and detoured around it a bit below the top.  I was lucky I was able to do that.  There were very few handholds and it was mostly loose dirt and leaves.

That obstacle was just before the last mountain of the trip, Mt. Juni (十二ヶ岳"Junigatake").  It was an omen of what was to come for the last mile or two.  The remainder was just about all like that--or at least really steep.  It was characterized by rock walls, ropes and ladders . . .

but of course there were still some spectacular views to be had!

That is Lake Sai down below.

Incidentally, the view from Lake Sai wasn't that great.  Being one of the smaller lakes, its view of Fuji is mostly blocked by the mountains in between.

Not long after hitting the bottom, I rewarded myself with a steaming bowl of Houtou.  That stuff is scrumptious.  I've been craving it since the first time I shared a bowl with Mrs Caveman a few months ago.

https://www.foodinjapan.org/kanto/yamanashi/houtou/

Come back again!

Here is more from the Fuji Five Lakes area

https://mymancaveisthemountains.blogspot.com/2023/02/just-lake-shoji-area-dayhike.html

Swans

Near Yamanakako

Ryugatake Kenashi

Saiko Lake , Onigatake, Outake, Settougatake, Iyashinosato Nemba

Ryugatake and Omuro

Mt. Ishiwari Lake Yamanaka

Lake Kawaguchi Mts. Kurodake, Happu, Nakattou and Awazu

The bottom half of Fuji in winter

Fuji in August

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Caveman out.

Broken boots in Kamikochi. Mt. Hotaka. One of Japan's 100 Famous Mountains and its 3rd highest. August, 2022

Greetings and salutations cave ladies, cave gentlemen and cave children of all ages.  
Today I'd like to tell you about a trip to Japan's Northern Alps region.  

First, let me give you some details and stats.  Then I'll show you some pictures.

Location:  

Japanese Northern Alps (The Hida Mountain Range).  The border between Takayama City, Gifu Prefecture and Matsumoto City, Nagano City

Starting and stopping point:  

Kamikochi Bus Terminal

Mountains climbed: 

Maehotakadake, Okuhotakadake.   These names are often shortened to "Maeho" and "Okuho."

A word on the names.  The main name for this collection of peaks is Hotakadake.  "Ho"means something like "ear" (of corn) or "point" and "taka" means "high."  "Dake" means "peak".  

The peaks specifically are "Maehotaka", "Nishihotaka", "Okuhotaka" and "Kitahotaka."  "Mae"="front."  "Nishi"="west."  "Oku"="inner part" or "recess."  "Kita" means "north."

Getting there/getting around:  

Private cars aren't allowed as far as Kamikochi.  You must take a bus.  You can get one from Matsumoto or from far away exotic places like Shinjiku or Tokyo.  One bus company is here: Alpico Bus .    This web site has great access information.  Access  Leave a comment to ask me for advice if you need help choosing a route from where you are.

Map:  

Yama to Kogen Chizu #38 山と高原地図　槍ヶ岳・穂高岳　上高地

Weather Information:  

Mountain Forecast dot com  or Tenki to kurasu (Japanese, but with understandable graphics)

Distance:  

26km

Time:  

3 days/2 nights 18 hours, 51 minutes hiking (but we were sloooooow)

Elevation:  

Lowest point: 1,500 meters  Highest: 3,190 meters.  Total ascent 2,200.  Total descent 2,200 meters.

Technical considerations/difficulty:  

Fairly challenging.  Part of this route, from Dakesawa Hut to Kimiko Daira, has the steepest ascent in the Alps.  There are many places with chains, ropes or ladders.  There are many spots that necessitate climbing with both hands and feet.  Much of the route is above the tree line and some spots are quite exposed.  All that said, this route to Okuhotaka is not as challenging as the Nishihotaka side, the Gendarme or the Daikiretto to the north.  Those demand more technical ability and strength.  Helmets on the route we chose are definitely recommended but ropes and harnesses aren't necessary.  This site is a treasure trove of information on all things Kamikochi.  Kamikochi trekking information

Facilities:  

There are several huts in the area where food and lodging are available.  Each of the huts typically has tenting sites and even rental equipment to the point where going camping "tebura"* is possible.  (*"tebura" "手ぶら"  means "hands hanging by one's side", ie empty-handed)   Along with the usual souvenirs and snacks, mountaineering clothes and boots are available for purchase.  Kamikochi is really an Alpine paradise of sorts.  Each of the huts has pay toilets as well.  On the trail, there is nothing between huts.  I always wonder what females do about the call of nature up there.  I know what I do.  Shhhh.  Let's keep that between us. 😉

Thoughts/observations: 

I wish I had the time and money to do a trip like this every day.  What a place.  The weather wasn't the best for this hike but it was still great.  August in Japan does not offer too many clear skies and it was a bit of a disappointment not to get any completely unobstructed views of the mountains from the bottom or of their surroundings from the tops.   The best season for hiking in the area is fall.  The air is crisp and clear and the fall foliage is gorgeous.  Unfortunately, that's when all the people show up.  The place we tented at the second night has sites for 800 tents--and it does get full during leaf-peeping season.  The caveman goes to the mountains to get away from people so a few clouds in August is ok by him.

This is in the Visitor's Center

Just a few minutes up the trail and we reached this famous bridge which is called Kappa Bashi.

The Azusa River is so clean.  I don't think I have ever seen such clear water in a river with so much volume.

This sign is similar to warnings I've seen a million times.  "A bear was sighted at so and so on such and such a date."  Usually it's sometime long previous.  This is the first time I have ever seen a sign dated the same day I was reading it and for the exact place I was going.  Yikes.

After walking a bit by the river with all the crowds, the trail starts and the crowds thin out.  

This is a nice place to cool off.  Cold air emanates from the cave.

A rare sighting of the sun.  It was hiding for a lot of this trip.

On day 1 we hiked up to the Dakesawa Hut and pitched our tents nearby.  From there we could see the ridge we would be walking along the next morning.

Day 2, looking south from the Dakesawa area just after starting out.

Caleb with the Dakesawa Hut in the background.

It was around this point that Caleb realized his boots were falling apart!  Both his right and left soles picked this precise moment to start falling off.  This was a potential disaster as we were already well into our trip but luckily he was able to hold the soles on with tape he had in his first aid kit.  They don't call him MacGyver for nothing.  (Actually, they don't, but I think they should.)  He applied tape at this point and again the next morning.  That tape held up for 10 miles!  Thank God.

*Note to self.  Put tape in first aid kit.

**Note to self.  Make first aid kit.

Shortly after Caleb had his blowout, we separated for a bit.  I took the spur up to Maehotaka while he kept heading on to Okuhotaka.  We figured we should try to lessen the burden on his boots as much as possible.  Since he was moving slowly, I was able to get to that summit and back on our trail to catch up with him around lunch.

This is where the trail up to Maehotaka starts and where we parted.  Maehotaka is about 25 minutes up and 25 minutes back to the ridgeline trail to Okuhotaka.

Do you like my helmet?  I didn't have one before this trip.  I didn't feel like shelling out  the money for something with a brandname on it so I went to Workman, a store that specializes in clothes and equipment for construction workers.  It worked fine.

I am not the first person to think of this.  A Japanese guy started chatting me up on the trail by noting how big my pack was.  I told him I'm けち (cheap) and so was tenting instead of staying in a hut.  We both chuckled about being cheap or broke and I pointed at my helmet.  He got really excited and pointed at his, saying "Mine, too."  His had a Montbel sticker on the side but he said, "sticker only, not real one."  😂

Speaking of helmets.  Rentals up there are available.  I'm not 100% sure of locations renting them but you need to come back the same route so you can return it to the place you rented it from. 

Some pictures from the Tsuri One.  (吊り尾根)= "Suspended Ridge"

After getting up and down Maehotaka and walking along the south side of the Tsuri Ridge for a bit, I got my first look down below at the Karasawa Hut on the other side of the ridge.  That's where we would pitch our tents for the second night.  

I think it's so cool to see snow in August. 

The top of Okuhotaka.

That is called a "raicho" (雷鳥) in Japanese.  It is grouse or ptarmigan in English.  I like a more direct translation of the Japanese though--"thunder" "bird".

This hundred meter or so drop to the hut was pretty gnarly.  You really need to watch where you put your feet and hands.

This hut was closed except for tenting from August 21 through 27 because someone on the staff got COVID.  I hope they're ok.  That closing must have inconvenienced a lot of people. 

Let's have a moment of silence.  This sign gave its all for you and me.

This is the information board at the Karasawa Hut.  Obviously you see the weather and other bits of information.  On the left are statistics about rescues and accidents from July 1 until August 22.  The map shows the locations.  The blue and white paper on the bottom in the middle shows the causes and resolutions of the accidents.

If it ain't raining, it ain't training.

People make fun of my big, bulky, dorky tent.  I like the roominess though.

We convered more distance on day 3 than on days 1 and 2 combined.  After a few hours coming down through scree and mountain trails from the Karasawa area, we hit pretty flat trails next to rivers that would lead us back to the Kamikochi Bus Terminal.  

The Hondani Bridge

Let's hear it for Caleb's boots.  That repair held up for ten hard miles.

His boots more than earned this badge of honor.

Well cave cats and cave chicks, that's it for today.  I can't wait to do something like this again.

Take care of yourselves.  Stay dry and always carry some tape.

Leave a comment.  Subscribe.  Buy me a coffee and I will contribute to Caleb's boot fund.

Want to see a report on Japan's second and fourth-highest mountains?  Check out Kitadake and Ainodake.  The grandaddy of them all is Mt. Fuji, of course.

Caveman out