Caveman Conquers 💯 Famous Mountain fame Nishi Azuma, questions life decisions on the way 😉

 

Azuma River

Greeting Cavekids
This is a report on Mt. Azuma of 100 Famous Mountains Fame

. . .  about Mt. Azuma (Nishiazuma)  吾妻山(西吾妻山)

This is one of the mountains that appears in Kyuya Fukada's book, 100 Mountains of Japan.  It's in the Urabandai area of Fukushima.  Mt. Bandai had a massive eruption in 1888 that killed 477 people, erased several villages from the map and created several new lakes.  To the south of Mt. Bandai is the massive lake, Lake Inawashiro.  The north side, the back or "ura" of the Bandai area, is home to several smaller lakes and marshes.  This was my fourth or fifth trip to the area.  It's quite far, but it's very special.

There are several peaks along the Azuma mountains but the most popular ones are to the east.  Nishi ("West") Azuma is the one listed as part of the 100 Famous Mountains.  I don't understand why.  There is no view from the summit at all and it seems not so exciting.  Then again, I was there on a cloudy day and was robbed of seeing much of anything.  (again)


Area:

Location:

Urabandai area on the border between Fukushima and Yamagata.

Map:  ***The Caveman is giving up on posting links to Yama to Kogen maps.  They go out of date after a year or so and the links die.  If you want a link to their latest map, comment and I'll get you a link to their latest map of the area.  Check this out: Online Interactive Topo map

Starting and stopping point:  早稲沢登山口 Wasezawa Trailhead

Peaks bagged: Nishi Daiten and Nishi Azuma

(First-time) peaks # 946 and 947

100 Famous Mountain #40, Mt. Nishi Azuma



Getting there/getting around:  

I drove.  The last kilometer or so to the trailhead is quite bumpy.

Helpful Info

Weather Information: Azuma (Nishi Azuma) Weather

Time and distance

Total Time:  7:56 Break time:  :41 Distance:  12.3 km
Elevation:  Lowest: 1,008 m  Highest: 2,035 m Total Ascent: 1,296 m  Total Descent: 1,296 m

Technical considerations/difficulty:  

Do not go on this trail without a working GPS.  The trail is not marked at all and is exceedingly difficult to find.

There are no exposed areas, ropes or chains but several of the wooden bridges crossing the river are old, slimy and very slippery.

There are many fallen trees.

Facilities:  

There is an emergency hut not far from the peak of Mt. Nishi Azuma.  It is a sturdy hut, but there is no restroom.

There is a public restroom at the trailhead but it is out of order.

Thoughts/observations/recommendations:  

Whatever you do, don't do this.  😆  By all means, check out Nishi Azuma, but use a different trail than I did.  I recommend attacking it from the east side.

(Note that this picture is oriented with north to the bottom.)

Google earth


OK, let's gather around the fire and I'll tell the tale.

So there I was on point going through the elephant grass and the jungle.  I was exhausted mentally and physically.  Physically from the struggle of having to thrash my way through lush vegetation every step of the way; like some kind of explorer of the Amazon.  I almost expected to step into a clearing and hear "Dr. Livingston, I presume."  Mentally I was tired from the strain of concentrating hard to stay on course when I couldn't see more than 1 yard in each direction and from the knowledge that an ambush or a boobytrap could be encountered at any time.

Anyway, that's what I felt like for much of this hike.  I was experiencing a kind of second-hand ptsd I guess.  

We'll get to that later.

First, this is the trailhead.  Note the traffic cone.  That is worthy of talking about later.



The first half hour or so of this hike was along a pleasant stream with lots of falls to photograph.  I liked that.  I'm a big fan of running water.








The flora is pretty cool, too.  There are a variety of mushrooms I encountered.



Just around this part of the hike, I started questioning my choice in hobbies.

For the next several hours, the "trail" was like this.


Actually, those were from the best sections of the trail.  I needed both hands and feet to move so didn't take many pictures.

Usually a trail is, well, a trail.  At a minimum, they are marked with pink ribbons in Japan to help you navigate.  This trail has very few ribbons and, due to the density of the bamboo grass, they aren't visible until you are right on top of them.

This video is of one of the easiest-to-navigate portions of the trail because my hands were free to hold my iphone.

I didn't take many pictures on that part of the journey also because, well, because I wanted to forget it ever happened.  I honestly reflected that if that happened to be my first hiking experience, I would have picked a different hobby!

That bamboo grass is really sturdy.  You can't just break your way through it.  You have to part your way through it.  

The footing situation is quite nerve-wracking and tedious, too.  You have to be very careful to part the bamboo grass so as to see what you're stepping on.  It might be level ground, or it might be a deep hole.

One mile of this trail took me one and a half hours (X2 because I had to go back through it!)  On flat ground, I walk a mile in 19-20 minutes.

OK, let's get to some more pleasant pictures.  Let's go back to the happy place.  The fall leaves are a little late this year, but there were some pretty ones.







Just after finally escaping the bamboo grass, I popped out at the summit of Mt. Nishi Daiten.




From there, the next destination was Mt. Nishi Azuma





This is the type of trail most people hiking around Nishi Azuma spend their time on.  This is a horse of a completely different color.


I skipped the summit of Nishi Azuma to head to the first scenic spot, Tengu Iwa.


Tengu Iwa

Not sure what this is or what it says, but what caught my attention was that it was inscribed in 昭和43年, the 43rd year of the Emperor Showa.  That happens to be the year I was born.



I never did meet the emperor.  His son, the present emperor was quite an alpinist before he ascended to the throne and had to start his job of emperoring.  I've never met this emperor either, but I do encounter his picture or dedicated monuments at many of the mountains I visit.  

Poor dude isn't allowed to hike anymore.
He is greatly to be pitied.


"This.  THIS is the top of the mountain I struggled to get to???" is what I thought when I got to the top.

Obviously Fukada san didn't pick this mountain as one of the 100 for the views from its summit.



Before long after the summit, it was back into the bamboo grass for the descent.  This was even more nerve-wracking because gravity was conspiring against me trying to make me fall and/or twist an ankle.

I learned in the 'Nam that most bad stuff happens on the way back from missions.
OK, maybe I didn't learn that there, but I know it to be true.



I consoled myself with the pretty leaves, though.

















Getting back to the trailhead was when I first noticed the traffic cone.  Even though I was never a boy scout, I decided it was my duty to right it.


After I put the cone up, everything became clear.  That little brown sign (not the dark brown sign--that merely says "Watch out for bears")--that little brown sign says "土砂崩れのために通行できません."--"Closed due to landslides."

No wonder.  
There's a lesson to be learned in this, probably.  I did my internet recon using my hiking apps.  They almost always have updated info on trail closures.  I guess not always!


Anyway, at least I got to bag another of the 100 Famous Mountains and got safely home to Mrs. Caveman.  It was a successful day.

That's all for now.

I have to go and write about the adventure I had on another of the 100 Famous mountains the day after this trip.  While I am gone, why don't you take a look at a write-up on Mt. Bandai?  It's one of my very favorite mountains.  Before you do that, though, make sure to subscribe to this blog.  Leave a comment.  Tell your friends, etc.

Caveman out













 







Caveman conquers the 17th highest peak in Japan. Mt. Senjogatake of 💯 Famous Mountain Fame

 



Greetings cavedwellers.
This is a report on Mt. Senjogatake (仙丈ヶ岳), the Queen of the Minami Alps.



Senjogatake (仙丈ヶ岳)

. . . is a mountain in the northern Minami Alps.  It is one of Japan's Famous 100 Mountains and is also on the list of Japan's Famous 100 Flower Mountains.  The actual reason it was named Senjo, which means measure, was lost in the memory dustbin of history quicker than I can say "Where'd I put my stupid car keys?"  Because of it's gentle curves, it's colloquially known as the Queen of the Minami Alps.  This is in contrast to its pointier and, dare we say more masculinely shaped neighbor, Mt. Kaikomagatake.  That one is known as the Prince of the Minami Alps.  (Who made up these nicknames, anyway?  Sigmund Freud?)

Since it's not particularly dangerous, Senjogadake is seen as an entry-level kind of mountain for those first venturing into mountains over 3,000 meters high.

Area:

Northern section of The Minami (Southern) Alps.  Ina City, Nagano and Hokuto City and Minami Alps City, Yamanashi


Location:

Map:  ***The Caveman is giving up on posting links to Yama to Kogen maps.  They go out of date after a year or so and the links die.  If you want a link to their latest map, comment and I'll get you a link to their latest map of the area.

Online interactive topo map


Starting and stopping point: Kitazawa Pass Bus Stop 北沢峠バス停


Peaks bagged: Kosenjogatake (小仙丈ヶ岳) ~ Senjogatake (仙丈ヶ岳) ~ Daisenjogatake (大仙丈ヶ岳) ~ Uma no Se (馬の背)

(First-time) peaks # 942~945

100 Famous Mountains: #39 Senjogatake (仙丈ヶ岳)


Getting there/getting around:  

The first thing you need to do is get to Todaipark  (戸台パーク) so that you can get the bus to Kitazawa Pass.  (¥1,370 one way, ¥2,740 roundtrip).  There is ample parking there.  It costs ¥1,000

You can get to Todaipark by bus.  Here is a link to Ina City's page with JR info and Japan Rail's (JREAST) page with their info.  I am glad I could drive.  Trying to puzzle through those timetables makes my head hurt.  If you plan on using public transportation and need help figuring out the train/bus situation, leave a comment.


Helpful Info

Weather Information: 


Time and distance

Total Time:  6:52 Break time: :34  Distance:  12 km
Elevation:  Lowest: 2,036 m Highest: 3,033 m Total Ascent: 1,306 m  Total Descent: 1,306 m


Technical considerations/difficulty:  

A day after completing this hike, my ankles 🦶 are still wobbly and I don't really want to do too much walking today because I have kind of a stiff gait.  I walk kind of like this guy. 🧟‍♂️  

I think that most people going to Senjogatake from the Kitazawa Pass don't go as far as I did.  I wanted to bag two more peaks so added about another half of the distance of the usual hike's distance.  What I did yesterday in distance and elevation change is roughly equivalent to climbing Mt. Fuji from the Gotenba side.  No wonder my ankles are stiff.

There are a few spots with chains on this hike, but not too much.  It's pretty high, so some of the hike is above the treeline.  The wind can blow.  The only spot that got my adrenaline going a little was on a narrow ridge of boulders between Senjogatake and Daisenjogatake.  I really wouldn't want to slip there.   

The usual route from Kitazawa Pass to Senjogatake and back is 8.4 km and is a change in elevation of about 1,000 meters.  THE LAST RETURNING BUS IS AT 4 PM.  DON'T MISS IT.


Facilities:  

The Senryuso adjacent to the Todai Park Bus Stop has an onsen (¥800), restaurant and lodging.  Parking costs ¥1,000.  You pay on the way out.  They have pin badges and t-shirts.  I bought a t-shirt there last time I passed through there.  It has a map of Japan with the 100 Famous Mountains and their locations listed on it.  I have been surprised by how many people have commented and complimented me on that t-shirt every time I've worn it.

Komorebisanso is a lodge at the Kitazawa Bus Stop.  No campsites.  This would be a logical place to stay if you wanted to climb Kaikomagatake on one day and Senjogatake on another.

Kitazawa Bus Stop has a pay toilet.

There are pay toilets at the various mountain huts on the trail.  There is also a booth for portable toilet usage on the trail at the Yabusawa Hut (藪沢小屋).  

There is water at the Uma no Se Hut (馬の背ヒュッテ) and the Yabusawa River is potable.  

There is another lodge 10 minutes from the Kitazawa Pass.  It has tent sites and water. 


Thoughts/observations/recommendations:  

Do it.  This is a great mountain.  If I had thought of it before, I would have made this into an overnight trip.  I think I would pitch a tent at the Choeigoya (link above) and hike Senjogatake and Kaikomagatake in successive days.  Both hikes are about the same distance and difficulty and the Choeigoya is right in the middle.  I live not too far away and could do both mountains on separate day trips but being tied to the bus times was a hassle.  Between the two trips, I spent at least 3 hours waiting for buses.  (And the buses are sometimes late!  I have never experienced a late bus in Japan.)  



I couldn't sleep the night before and left early.  I got it in my head that the first bus was 5 so I got there at 4:30.  I was wrong.  The first bus is 5:30.  Tickets don't even go on sale until 5.  I was hanging out by myself.

Then, after I got my ticket, I went to the bench at the bus stop to line up and found that people had already left bottles of water on the bench to mark their place in line!

Then, just about 5:15 when there was a large crowd already lined up, someone from the bus company came out and said the bus would depart late!


This was the closest I got to a blue sky all day.  That blue patch is about 20 miles away.  
It rained, sometimes quite heavily off and on all day.


Kaikomagatake is one that I climbed about 2 weeks ago.  That is a beautiful mountain.


I was surprised to see any fall foliage at all.  It's been warm this fall.



The first peak of the day, Kosenjodake.


Linger on this picture a minute.  It'll move.


Senjo

Japan has so many beautiful flowers.

flowers


Daisenjodake.
3rd peak of the day.



Senjo Hut


The Senjo Hut has a viewing deck.  Unfortunately, visibility was bad.😢
These trees are directly below the deck.

From Senjo Hut




This is a ptarmigan, raicho (雷鳥) in Japanese.  The x in ptarmigan is silent.  The characters for raicho directly translate to "thunder" "bird".  I wish it was thunderbird in English.  That sounds way cooler than ptarmigan and is a lot easier to spell.  I came across a family of four of them near the Senjo Hut.  

After the birds, I made a slight detour to try and bag one more peak, Mt. Uma no Se, ("Horse's" "Back").  I encountered a lot more leafy trees in this area than usual.  Even though the maple trees aren't changing yet, some other leaves have turned.  There are a lot of gnarly looking birch trees in the area that are cool, too.




The top of Uma no Se is somewhere up there.  I wasn't sure if I could get up there because there is no trail on the map and the area is covered with Siberian Dwarf Pine.  I'm always hoping to bag another peak, though!
Uma no se

I tried pushing my way through the pine searching for a trail for a while.  ('Dwarf' Pine my ass.  It was over my head.)
Then I saw a pink ribbon!  Those are used to mark trails.  Hooray!  I fought my way over to it only to find it was a cruel joke.  There ain't no stinking path anywhere.  Who put that ribbon there, and why?  I'll never know.


I don't know if there is any other marker up there or not . . . 


It'll be our secret.  😉


This is the closest the sun came to making an appearance today.
It was like this for approximately 10 seconds.


The Uma no Se Hutte (Hut)  (Link at the beginning of this post.)


Inside


The next sight to see was a stream and several falls.




errri



Next stop was the Komorebisanso by the Kitazawa Bus Stop to wait for the bus home.
I blew it on the time.  There is a bus at 1:10 and the next one isn't til 3.  I got to the bus stop at 1:30.  D'oh!
Interestingly enough, although cell service was fine on the mountain, there is no signal around the pass.  You can use the wifi in the Komorebisanso but it was like ¥600.  Yikes.  

Despite the price of the wifi, the Komorebisanso is a nice, clean place.
One thing I appreciated is that they have some running water and brushes they let you use to wash your gear off.


My personal graphic designer/retail magnate (AKA Mrs Caveman) appreciated this display.



Well cavedwellers, that's all.
I have had a hard time concentrating on making this blogpost.  Mrs. Caveman
and I have plans to go camping in a few days and I have a few more hikes I've
been scheming and daydreaming about these days.  I feel like a kid in a candy store.

If you haven't subscribed to the blog, what are you waiting for?  If you're really happy, try out the buy me a coffee button.  I could use a new pair of boots. (That's a standing headline if ever there was such a thing as a standing headline.)

If you really haven't had enough of this mountain, look at this:


The hike to the adjacent 100 Famous Mountain Prince of the Alps, Kaikoma is worth checking out.

That's all.
Caveman out