Mt. Kuju is in the Aso-Kuju National Park in Oita Prefecture on the island of Kyushu. This is a volcanic region and has great views. The Nakadake peak next to Mt. Kuju is the highest point on the island.
Elevation:Lowest: 1,029 m Highest: 1,791 m Total Ascent: 1,052 m Total Descent: 1,050 m
Technical considerations/difficulty:
Much of this is fairly steep and there are ropes you need to use to get up. On the descent, there was a long section of black, slippery mud. This section has ropes that you really need to use lest you slip. I counted myself as very lucky that I didn't slip there because it would have been impossible to wash that mud out.
Facilities:
Toilet at the parking lot. There is an onsen near the parking lot but that has a lot of days off. There is nothing on this trail. There is an emergency hut or two in the area. There is one waterhole annotated on the Yama to Kogen map but there was only a trickle of water when I was there (March). Someone noted that it was dry when they were there in August.
Thoughts/observations/recommendations:
As always, this was a great hike. Kyushu is far from my area and I'll probably not be there again but I'm glad I went.
Here's a video if you're into that
The Cavecar drove from Nagano to this trailhead via Hiroshima and Nagasaki. Four days after beginning this trek, upon finally reaching the beginning of the first hike, the car died in the parking lot at the trailhead. I called JAF (Japanese Auto Federation) and the wrecker driver came out.
As often happens, when the mechanic arrived, the mechanical problem disappeared and my car started right up!
I thought the prudent thing would be to give up on the hike and drive to a car dealer and to get it checked out more thoroughly during the day rather than risk it breaking down later in the day.
That would have been prudent. But I have never met Prudence so I decided to hike first and worry about whether I could make it home later.🤓👍😜
Thankfully, the car was ok after this incident.
Lots of volcanoes down here. You always have to beware of the alert levels.
Not too cold.
2.5 km later after hiking for an hour, I reached the top
御池 "O eekay"--"Honorable Pond"
Looking toward Mt. Aso
This was nerve-racking.
The Akagawa Onsen
(was closed on that day).
The sign says it's potable so I filled a water bottle. I thought this was really cool.
Well . . . you can drink the water but I wouldn't recommend it. Wow. That was gross.
If you've been around volcanoes or hotsprings, you have an idea of the smell. The taste is similar to the smell.
Not only did it taste bad, there is aftertaste. Every time I burped, I tasted it again.
Even the next day--after refilling the bottle with different water--the taste lingered in my water bottle.
The view of the river by the onsen
Well, I guess that is it for the Caveman today.
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. . . about the mountains on either side of the Kurumasaka Pass
The Kurumasaka Pass is on the prefectural border between Nagano in the south and Gunma in the north. To the east of the pass lie Mt. Kuruma, Kurofu and Mt. Asama beyond. To the west there is a line of mountains which gradually decrease in elevation until they end in the river valley that runs through Ueda City about 15 miles to the west. On the Gunma side of the pass is a ski area called Asama 2000 Park.
Area:
Location:
Map: ***If you want a link to the latest Yama to Kogen map, comment and I'll get you a link. This link is to a printable topo map
Peaks bagged: Mt. Takamine (高峯) ~ Mt. Mizunoto (水ノ塔山)
(First-time) peaks # ーー
Getting there/getting around:
There is lots of parking at the Takamine Kogen Visitors Center.
There is a bus stop at the Kurumasaka Pass serviced by JR Bus. You can get a bus there from Komoro Station or Sakudaira Station if you are already in Nagano. There is even bus service to that bus stop from the Busta Terminal at Shinjuku Station.
If you can read Japanese, the Takamine Onsen's website has the best detailed information for transportation. It's possible to get there via shinkansen and bus in 2.5 hours from Tokyo.
Total Time: 4:20 hours Break time: :30 Distance: 7.1 km
Elevation:Lowest: 1,941 m Highest: 2,202 m Total Ascent: 604 m Total Descent: 604 m
Technical considerations/difficulty:
Since this is a winter hike, it should go without saying that you need the proper dress and equipment. Snowshoes or wakan are a very good idea. At a minimum. you need spikes on your feet. The snow is quite deep so be prepared to fall in up to your waist. None of the trails on this hike have chains or ladders but there are some boulders at the top of Takamine and on the approach to the top of Mizunoto.
Most of the hike goes by areas with a fair amount of people. About midway through the hike, you start to pass by a few chair lifts. I was just starting to feel serene in the snow and paused to listen to the winter silence when what should I hear but Ann Wilson screaming she was going to go crazy on me from a speaker on the nearby chairlift. The idea of Ann Wilson doing that 50 years is intriguing. Now, not so much. I guess classic rock is all the rage at that ski area. But I digress.
Anyway, there is a ski area and a mountain lodge/onsen that you pass on the way. The lodge gives classes on snowshoeing so you see some people doing that. Beyond that lodge and the last ski lift it gets a bit more solitary on the way up to Mizunoto. Basically what I'm saying is that this is a fairly risk-free endeavor for most of the way. The ski areas blaring the hits of the 70s and the lines of old ladies walking like ducks through the snow would make it hard to get lost for most of the time in this area.
Facilities:
Takamine Kogen Visitor Center The parking lot is here. Public restrooms. Restaurant. Educational displays. Hiking goods (including everything for snowshoeing) for sale. The equipment and prices weren't bad. Snowshoes and equipment for rent.
Takamine Kogen Hotel Hotel right at the Kurumasaka Pass. The trailheads for Mt. Kurofu to the east and Mt. Takamine to the west are here. Fun fact. At night I can see their lights from where I live 12 miles away. The first time I spotted the little speck of light I though it was a UFO.
高峯温泉 日本語版Takamine Onsen (English) (The "English" link is quirky. Half of the page is translated into English, another half of the page is in Chinese.) This lodge is at the trailhead to Mizunoto, about halfway through the hike I record in this post. A ski slope passes in front of it and there are benches to catch the view from there. It's pretty year round. There is an onsen. They offer free training in snowshoeing. I've never been inside, but I have walked by it several times. It is possible to drive there in the summer on the very bumpy forestry road. During the winter only snow vehicles can get there. Their website has a schedule for that service. Click on the アクセス link on the left side of the page and then scroll down the page to 雪上車運行時間.
Thoughts/observations/etc.:
I've had precious few days to get into the mountains this month. My last hike was on Mt. Kenashi down near Mt. Fuji on the first day of the month. That was nice--but there wasn't much snow. I have sorely wanted to get out on into the snow while the winter is still here.
This weekend was my first chance to get out and I decided to stay in my backyard as it were. I can see Mt. Asama and its neighbors from my home and was looking up at them longingly for the past several days. Every day had been characterized by blue skies and the rugged snow-capped peaks were calling me.
When I finally got the chance to go, the sky was cloudy. All the mountains I'd been looking at were hiding from me as I drove steadily up from Saku City into Komoro City and into the hills. It's a chore for my little car's little engine to chug it's way from and elevation of 675 m to almost 2,000 m. At one point I was going 20km/h despite putting the pedal to the metal.
It was nice to get into the snow. On this day, I was wearing a new pair of wakan (snowshoes) and was excited to try them out. (They are great, by the way!)
Unfortunately, it was cloudy until I got to the first peak. Then my iphone stopped responding and I couldn't take any pictures. It did clear up and become beautiful👍 but I got no pictures👎. Also, my GPS stats were lost. That was frustrating. The snow was so beautiful that if reminded me of a marshmallow world. I wish I could share pictures of it with you. I'll share pictures I took in the area in the summer to give you some idea.
My smartphone's becoming unresponsive made making this map difficult. Reading it is probably even more difficult than it was to make.
Let's be honest, though. Do I have any reason to think any of you is going to try and puzzle your way through my ADHD-addled scribbles?
Here's a video of the day:
My new toys! These are called wakan or kanjiki in Japanese. This type of snowshoe is more adapted to climbing slopes than traditional snowshoes. These don't have the buoyancy of regular snowshoes so you will sink deeper if you break the surface. They are easier to pull out of the snow than snowshoes, though. There are lots of tradeoffs and opportunity costs to either type of shoe you choose.
These cost me ¥9,900 at Montbel and I really am glad I got them.
The Takamine Hotel, by the Kurumasaka Pass.
This torii is probably 12-14 feet high.
This is what it looks like with less snow.
Great temperature for hiking in the snow. If it gets too warm, the ice melts and refreezes in your footgear and you can encounter mud which is also an inconvenient mess. It's much better if you are below freezing all the time.
The top of Takamine. Takamine means tall peak.
Here's me handsome mug at the shrine on top of Takamine
This is where I was. I took this picture from my neighborhood.
Soon after I left the top of Takamine--and just before the sky cleared up--my smartphone stopped working. So I was unable to take any pictures for most of the hike. Mt. Mizunoto is higher and had great snow scenes.
Sigh.
To supplement what I missed, I'll put some pictures I took of the same area in the summer.
This is the trailhead to Mt. Mizunoto, just in front of the Takamine Onsen. The clearing to the right is a ski slope.
On the way up . . .
The top of Mt. Mizunoto
"Mizu" is water and "toe" is pagoda or tower.
This sign was mostly buried when I was there this past weekend.
There are some beautiful flowers in the area. Especially just behind the parking lot at the visitor center.
I'll end with a few long shots I took from Takamine on that summer day.
That's all for today.
I still haven't gone to the mountain I am planning on for my 1,000th peak. I wanted to go earlier this month but that mountain has been getting absolutely walloped with snow. Hopefully I can get there next weekend. Even if I go there, I am not sure it will be hikeable. It's quite far away and although I am communicating with a few locals, I really won't know what the conditions are until I see them for myself. This will be my second attempt at this mountain. The first time I turned back. If I have to turn back again, I will . . . but I will bag this peak sometime. If if has to wait until summer, I'll go back again.
Take a look at these posts if you want to see more of this area:
